By Oscar Herrera and Destiny Rivera
Residents and community members view Humboldt Park as the epitome of a self-serving community. As the neighborhood has been the recipient of poor government funding over the years, the residents of Humboldt Park have opened up various organizations and businesses to provide resources for the community.
Many of these organizations are located on Division Street between two large Puerto Rican flag sculptures– a small strip called El Paseo Boricua. Over the past few decades, the stretch of road between Western and California has developed into a beautiful, cultural home for the Puerto Rican community.
“My neighborhood was built from the bottom, and developed into something beautiful by our people,” said Maria Malave, a long-time resident of Humboldt Park.
Humboldt Park is the hub of history, culture, and politics for Puerto Ricans in Chicago. The neighborhood is also home to trendy restaurants, colorful murals, and recreation.
The Restaurants
While Humboldt Park is home to many phenomenal Latinx restaurants, two stand out from the rest.
Paisano Tacos and Nellie’s are two restaurants on Division that serve delicious food to the community. From tacos and tamales, to tostones and arroz con gandules, these restaurants bring a variety of food from both Mexican and Puerto Rican culture.
Paisano Tacos is a small, local restaurant on Division street that is mostly known for their delicious tacos. Their creations are quick, almost like fast-food, but they taste as though they have been cooked in a home kitchen. It is one of two businesses on El Paseo that serves Mexican cuisine.
Nellie’s is a restaurant that serves Puerto Rican breakfast and lunch. Their menu boasts favorites such as the avena de coco (coconut oatmeal), and breakfast Jibarito. On Saturday mornings, they offer a full brunch buffet, where patrons can fill their plates with Puerto Rican and American breakfast foods alike.
At both restaurants, the atmosphere is homey; with servers that greet you with a smile, serve with charm, and show appreciation on your way out.
The Murals
Throughout El Paso, it is inevitable to see the buildings plastered with murals. Almost all of them are in appreciation for Humboldt park or the Puerto Rican culture. Many of them represent the joys and struggles of the Puerto Rican community in Chicago.
Some of the most recent work made in tribute to the community is “Las Puertas del Paseo Boricua,” or The Doors of El Paseo Boricua. Thirteen of Chicago’s local Latinx artists each created art for the doors of El Paseo in celebration of the community’s culture and identity.
These particular doors were selected because the buildings were owned by long time residents who had no intention of leaving the neighborhood anytime soon. The artists chose to paint the doors of these residents in the hope of keeping the public art around for a long time.
Maria says street art is one of Humboldt Parks very underrated features, saying that “the artists deserve more credit for the work they’ve done in the neighborhood. The art deserves more credit for making division street pop out.”
This project was curated by Sam Kirk, in association with the Puerto Rican Cultural Center. It was also sponsored by Chicago’s The Year of Public Art program and Alderman Roberto Maldonado’s office.
While visiting Botanica Victoria, one of the original businesses on Division Street, the owner Victoria Cruz pointed us to one of her favorite murals that happened to be on the corner of her block.
“You can see the sign for the Botanica on the top corner of the mural” Cruz said, referencing the many years her business has existed on Division.
A testament to the resilience of the Puerto Rican community in Chicago, the mural features Puerto Ricans decked out in Puerto Rican flags, t-shirts, and other paraphernalia crowding Division street. It gives homage to many Puerto Rican activists, residents, original businesses, and landmarks of Humboldt Park.
Businesses/Cultural Organizations
Along El Paseo, many businesses take on the role of cultural organizations, as many of them are Puerto Rican owned. Though the Puerto Rican Cultural Center and the National Museum of Puerto Rican Art offer public education on the neighborhood, visitors can get pertinent information on the neighborhood’s history, current issues, and events just by speaking to the owners of almost any business.
One such business, Botanica Victoria, hides cultural and historical knowledge in a small shop filled with crystals, herbs, colognes, and various religious statues. The owner of the shop, Victoria, quickly recounted some modern issues the community faces, including gentrification, and the Americanization of Puerto Ricans.
“Our youth aren’t learning Spanish.” Victoria Cruz said. “This puts us at a disadvantage compared to kids learning Spanish in the suburbs from Kindergarten since now they are bilingual.”
Indeed, language loss is of concern, as third generation Puerto Rican youth are becoming increasingly unable to speak Spanish. Though Victoria spoke on more contemporary issues, the botanica itself has been serving the community for generations.
“My mom and I used to walk there all the time when I was a kid” Malave said. “My mom would often use Agua Florida from there. I used to fall asleep to the smell [of it].”
As well as religious goods, the store also offers a variety of classes so community members are able to learn about traditional Puerto Rican spiritual practices.
Though business owners are informative due to their heavy involvement in the community, visitors can also visit organizations such as the Heritage Garden; a community garden with sculptures and a replica of a typical Puerto Rican home. Other such organizations are listed in the StoryMap above.
Preserving the Community
El Paseo is home to small businesses, organizations, and informative recreational activities. While businesses along El Paseo exist to serve the community by acting as cultural organizations, and finding unique ways to give back and build the community, cultural organizations are working to preserve Humboldt Park’s history as a hub of Puerto Rican culture.
Humboldt Park is painted all over with murals, and the Puerto Rican flag– along with all of its variants are flown proudly at every corner. Both aid in maintaining Puerto Rican presence in a gentrified neighborhood.
At the end of the interview, Maria Malave said about her community that “Humboldt Park will always be my home. I’ll never forget what this community overcame to make the neighborhood what it is now.”
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